Dolphins in the bow waves, dinner with good friends and service for the first time in days!
The next morning we departed Timbebiche` for San Evaristo! A little town I was very excited for because I heard you can get cell service here if you stand on the right hill, and I hadn’t talked to Nikki in about 9 days. I was pumped. It took us about 5 ½ hours to motor sail there, and we were fortunate enough to get a couple dolphins (the kind you are thinking of) swim beside us and in our bow waves! I got some awesome GoPro footage of them, and it was truly a majestic experience to see these beautiful, sweet, and playful creatures swim alongside us. We all just wanted to jump in and swim with them! I couldn’t help but think of the picture of two of my best friends, Greg and Ashlynn Stiles, that they have in their bathroom of them in Cabo (about 100 miles south of here) and the expression on Greg’s face with a Dolphin basically jumping right over them. I always laugh at it, but when you see these water mammals up close, majestic is the only way to properly describe it, and an expression of an 8 year kid old at Disney World, is the only face to make. Pure awesomeness, people.
We came around the point at San Evaristo to see A.J.’s boat anchored out, as well as a 36 foot Union cutter- a truly beautiful work of maritime history. As we pulled up to anchor, I hollered at the old salt on the Union, telling him I loved his boat, and he said thanks and asked, “where are you from?” to which I replied, “yeah! We have some rum!” Everyone cracked up because it was clear that I honestly misunderstood him over the sounds of our engine and the howling wind. Good times.
Bob told us that the last time he was here, there were only about 3 houses. Now there are about 40, a good size tienda market, and a damn good restaurant called Lupe and Maggi Maes. I immediately went to the hill to call Nikki and my parents and that really lifted up my spirits. My awesome Fiancée, giving me all the details to the Chieeeeeeeeeefs! Win over the broncos, and then the call dropped. I called back and told her thanks for all the details, I can watch the replay later- tell me about you! So we got to chat for about 20 minutes, and then I called the parents, talked to them, and headed down to meet the girls at Lupe’s. Other than the fact that they were out of ice (which we went to Viva and brought him a few bags for our drinks ) the place was a gem. As was Lupe. We had 2 orders of Ceviche, 2 orders of Sashimi (that was booommmmmb) and a total of 6 tequila and 7-ups (actually really freaking good) and the total was 530 pesos. About 25 bucks. So, since it would be another week until we got to go to another restaurant, we went back for dinner with A.J., and with Rick and Dan, a father and son who came in on a 42 foot Catalina who knew Bob. Great guys. We had a ball eating out at this tiny little restaurant, and then going back to Viva for a couple beverages and good conversation. I wish there were enough data here to post more pictures for you guys. Hell, it may be La Paz before I get this posted, so maybe some pictures will be possible there! I went back to Lupe’s again this morning and had huevos rancheros for breakfast along with some fresh papaya and fresh squeezed lemonade. I think one more visit before we depart in the morning may be necessary. We shall see. That’s all for now. I’m going to spend my afternoon reading Steinbeck in the sun, enjoying 82 degree weather.
We set sail from San Evaristo at about 8a.m. on 12/1/16. There are what looked like 2 floating UFO’s on the eastern horizon that Bob and I joked about every morning as we complained about the sun always being directly in our eyes until about 8:30a.m. while we drank coffee before everyone else woke up. As we approached the “UFO’s” on our departure, the closer we got, the more the horizon revealed of this little island, and what we thought was 2 separate islands, was actually one. It was uninhabited and small, but just on the other side was Isle San Jose`, which held our destination, Bahia Amortajada. This bay had something we hadn’t seen yet- a lagoon with a running creek that acts as the natural drainage system. The perimeter of the creek and the lagoon is filled with mangrove trees whose roots run down into the water and act as a habitat for 1000s of fish and sea creatures. It was only about 3-4 feet deep in most places under the mangroves, but it was creepy as hell. I hopped off the dingy and snorkeled over to the shore with my spear gun and shot a fish within 5 minutes. By far the biggest fish I had caught so far, and as it turned out, one of the best! Red Snapper baby! I slayed one more little guy about 20 minutes later, a Barred Pargo, which is rated “very good” for taste. About the time I made it back to te dingy and got the Pargo strung up with the Snapper, I noticed the little devils we were told only come out at night- hay-hay-nays (no-see-um bugs!) These little black bugs bite hard and leave a nasty itch. I was not risking it so we loaded up the dingy and got the hell out of there. It sucked leaving such a fantastic fishing location, especially since we are only about 50 miles from La Paz, and the further south we go in the sea, the sparser the fish are. If I get 15 with the spear by the end of the trip I’ll be happy. I’m at 7 now-4 days to go. I better get on it. We left Amortajada promptly, and motored about an hour south to Isla San Francisco. We were the only boat there until a very sleek looking motor cruiser with a 30 foot beam came in, followed by an 85 foot 50 million dollar yacht, then a 60 foot multi-million dollar yacht, then a trimaran, and a center cockpit 50 foot or so sailboat. We were excited to have company, but sometimes the privacy of your own anchorage is something to be treasured. I like it when I can pee of the stern and there is no one there to see .